Tenured Impala owners owe a debt of thanks to the N.A.I.S.S.O. posts. So many times problems were resolved almost as soon as they cropped up. Impala owners were armed with the knowledge of many! In the early years members posted at a furious pace. In this example the following question was posed
I have recently noticed that while driving and operating my AC and coming to
a stop that the AC compressor seems to stop running as the cold air coming
from my vents suddenly becomes warm. Upon returning to normal driving
speed, whether driving at say 25 mph or 50 mph the air coming from the vents
changes to a nice ice cold temperature. What might be the problem and where
do I start checking. Thanks in advance.
Wasn't long and Ken Guzzetta posted a great reply:
Check the cooling fans, probably a blown relay. The fans need to pull air
across the condenser for the A/C to work efficiently. When your car is
moving, there is enough air flow for the A/C to cool. Is the car running
hot? I've had problems with the secondary fan relay going out. The
connections in the electrical center get quite hot and the plastic will
deform making a good contact intermittent. I did relocate both relays from
the electrical center with the TSB kit from Dal. They run about $70 each
for the kit... you need two for both fans.
So many of us have experianced this event - and can validate his words. Next up is a nice step-by-step coolant flush.
Subject: Heater Core Fix
From: "Joe Nash" <jnassh@earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 19:13:30 -0500
X-Message-Number: 8
Ryan and List,
I was wondering when this question was going to pop up! Now that the cool
weather is here. The best fix is to flush your system totally, there is so
much gunk in our cars cooling system, that i plugs the heater core inlet
hose at the Restrictor. The Restrictor is in place so as to protect the
heater core from increased pressures during WOT. For a easier quick fix
follow my tried and true directions:
Starting with a cold engine, place a suitable catch pan under the water
pump. First locate the heater core inlet and outlet hoses. You will see
that the water pump has two approximately 3/4" inside diameter hoses coming
from it on the left side of the pump. The top hose is the outlet, and the
bottom is the inlet. You will have to obtain 2 rubber or cork corks that
would fit inside a 1/2" to 3/4" pipe. Remove the top hose and quickly
insert the cork into the pipe coming out of the waterpump while directing
the hose downward into the catch basin. Now after the top hose drains, move
to the bottom hose. This hose will be the gusher. You must be quick here,
other wise the coolant from the block will come rushing out. Slowly remove
the hose, and quickly put the cork into the pipe coming from the waterpump
while directing the hose into the catch basin. This will completely drain
your coolant tank. Ok...
After the hoses are done draining, Locate the tee by the coolant recover
tank. You will see it just to the right of the tank. Disconnect the hose
from the back of that tee. Ok this is the back flushing part. You may want
to catch this stuff in a separate container to see how much crap you got
out. With your mouth ( the heater core will not tolerate high pressures)
blow on the hose you just disconnected from the tee. You may have to blow a
few times to clear the remaining fluid out of the heater core. Now look at
the fluid you caught. You will be amazed at the clay like sludge that
appears. Now what I do is, take a garden hose and run a low pressure stream
of water into the hose, and watch the flow until it turns clear. You may
want to repeat the blowing procedure again to make sure all the gunk is
removed. Then run water again until it runs clear. After that, button it
all back up, remember though you have to be quick when you reconnect the
bottom hose as alot of coolant will coming out of the waterpump when you
pull the cork loose. Then fill the coolant tank back up, then start the car
and check for leaks. Also while the car is running, check out the nice heat
you get now. Check again after the car cools down to see if you have to add
more coolant or not. then you will be done.